Vroom, Vroom and Hue!

Just when I think this trip can't get any cooler, it does. We arrived in Hue (pronounced Hway) via overnight train from Hanoi. We were all signed up for the all day moto bike tour of the city and it's surrounding areas with all the extras. This might be the most fun day we've had yet!

Our bikes picked us up at 10am and we headed into the city to see the Citadel and Royal Palace grounds. The palace grounds are under mass amounts of reconstruction as the palace was destroyed during the war, first with the French then the Americans. Hue, the former capital of Vietnam, was a major target during the war and there are rebuilding efforts all over the area to try and restore and reconstruct some of the historical sights that were destroyed. The Citadel was the site of a major battle in the Vietnam war but remains intact. We also stopped by a Buddhist temple and saw the tomb of the last emperor to reign prior to the French invasion. Before his death, a fortune teller predicted that his enemies would raid his tomb and try to loot his riches so he kept the true location of his tomb a secret and created a false one instead. Thirty years later, the French raided this "fake" tomb but didn't find the riches and remains they were hoping for. We also managed to squeeze in 1 hr dragon boat cruise down the perfume river before we stopped for lunch.

Lunch stop was a nunnery where we were treated to yet another delicious meal. As Buddhists, monks and nuns do not eat any meat, it was a 5 course vegetarian meal. Up to this point it had been a grey day and had been threatening rain, but just as we finished eating there was a complete downpour. Our fabulous moto guides produced rain ponchos for each of us and we spent the rest of the afternoon scooting around in true Vietnamese style.

After lunch we took a tour through the back streets and alleys, city streets and along the river into the countryside. There we raced through rice fields and villages exploring the historic city. Andy wasn't kidding when she told us that there was no other way to see Hue. Everywhere we went there were temples and brightly painted historic buildings tucked between modern homes, lean-tos and burial sites. It was fascinating and really gave us a sense of the rich history of this place. We stopped at what is the second oldest covered bridge in Vietnam. There are only two remaining and we will see the other in Hoi An. On the other side we were welcomed like old friends to sit in a streamside pagoda and warm up with, you guessed it, delicious Vietnamese coffee. (I am rapidly falling in love with this place.)

If you can believe it we were not done yet. Next we stopped at a family incense stand where we learned and then each got to try rolling our own incense stick. Not exactly a success for any of us but cool nonetheless. After an impromptu game of hacky-sack with our moto drivers we were back on the road again. We found ourselves winding up dirt paths into a reforested area towards the top of a big hill. Like so many other things on this trip, what greeted us was not what we expected. We were at the top of Hue's best make-out and scenic viewing spot above the river and the city. It just so happens to also be the site of one of the most famous battles in the Vietnam war, Bunker Hill. It was so strange to stand up there and imagine the lives that were changed that day, to stand on top of the nondescript concrete bunkers and to admire the view. It just brings into perspective how the people here are faced with the wars that have been fought in their country everyday. They are immersed in it and it has become part of their culture. Homes are squeezed between burial plots. Ancient palaces and temples are in ruins. And lots of them, our guide included have stories of how their family was involved in the war. Today, our guide's father was a Captain in the Southern Army which is the side the American's were fighting on. He told us some of his father's war stories and how as a child he witnessed a nun burning herself in protest against the war.

A traffic jam in the city and a little more racing through the narrow back streets to get our heart pumping and we stopped at Thuy's house to see how conical bamboo hats are made. She is an expert on the craft and has been in several international magazine articles. It is said that Hue is the home of the bamboo hat. Just as we left Thuy's home, the heaven's opened up and dumped cats, dogs and cattle on us. The streets immediately filled with water and we had to wade and then drive through a good 5" of water to get back on the main roads. We were deposited at the DMZ bar at 6pm just in time to catch most of the Vietnam vs. Thailand soccer game.

Holy Cow! I can't wait to show you all some of the photos and video of our ride, it is difficult to describe in words. When we started the day we were told that our job was to ride along and wave to all the children on the way. Sure enough we were greeted with lots of waves, hellos and even a high five. It was a truly fantastic day!!!

Hoi An next...where you can have a three piece suit custom tailored overnight. My bank account is dwindling as I write this... :)