Now I understand what all the driving was for...to get here, to Halong Bay. And more specifically, to our overnight cruise on a junket. Which really does look and feel like a pirate ship. After leaving the homestay village we had a 12 hour bus ride to Ninh Binh across the Vietnam border. It was a VERY long ride followed by a VERY uneventful dinner in the hotel lobby. In the morning we boarded the bus again for another four hour ride to Halong Bay. Now when I say bus and ride, I really mean rollercoaster ride. I can't complain too much because we did have a private 24 passenger van which meant we each had a row of seats to ourselves. But we also had super rocket powered springs that sent your body launching into the air at even the hint of a bump.
But then we arrived at the docks and boarded our own private junket for a two day cruise around the bay. I feel I am running out of adjectives to describe all the cool things we have seen and done so I am going to go ahead and just use...Awesome.
The boat consisted of three levels. The lower level, or water level, held the cabins and kitchen. The upper level was a plush dining room surrounded by windows with a bar at the back end and the captains area at the front. The upper level, or top deck was open air deck chairs. Again, Awesome.
The crew lined up on deck to welcome us aboard in full uniform. After a 5 course meal of steamed prawns, crispy vegetable eggrolls, sesame fried pork, steamed veggies and fresh fruit; we settled into the deck chairs, drinks in hand, to nap and enjoy the scenery.
Halong Bay is truly beautiful in the way that only nature can be. Formed by erosion, nearly 2000 islands or all shapes and sizes rise up from the surace of the sea. Vietnamese legend says that these islands are part of the great dragon that descended from the sky to help the people fight off an enemy attack long, long ago. Hence the name Halong or descending dragon. The bay was declared a UNESCO site and has been on the new 7 natural wonders of the world list. Our plan was to float around the islands, moore up for the night in a protected area, and return the next afternoon. We did all this and more...
First, we stopped to visit a small floating village. We climbed on small canoe like boats to for a tour of the village and a peek at their pearl farm. The trip, which cost a whopping 20,000 dong ($1.20) also included a visit to their fish hatchery, school and a floating gift shop. The school wasn't included but they were happy to let us take a look around. The various parts of the gift shop were fundraisers for the village. In one area paintings and small crafts were sold for the garbage collection and disposal project. The other area was devoted to pearls, both loose and set, and was raising money for a laptop project to bring their children more access to the outside world.
In the evening, we tied up in a smaller bay with all the other tourist cruise boats and went for a swim as the sun set and the moon climbed up into the sky. There was a big fuss over trying to take photos of the boys jumping off the top deck of the boat. We couldn't get the camera's to work so they had to do it over and over again. I am sad to say, I was too chicken to jump from the top and only jumped from about 6' up.
Afterwards, another great dinner (more giant prawns, battered fish cakes, squid, chicken and fruit). I ordered, and drank, a mojito that tasted alarmingly similar to mouthwash. Then we headed back up on deck for the night. Ben, Matt and I had elected to spend the night under the stars and see the sunrise. We kept ourselves warm finishing off the bottle of gin and then slept under the sky on the lounge chairs. A lot of cloud cover moved in during the night but I woke up momentarily around 4am to see the clouds glowing pink.
After breakfast we stopped at a very cool limestone cave full and then headed in to shore for the last leg of our journey to Hanoi.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Week Two - Simon and Garfunkel alive and well in Loas
Saibidee! :) Or hello, always said with a smile and a singsong voice. Before leaving Laos I thought it would be a injustice if I didn't mention how lovely the people are. Having read that 80% of the population lives at a sustinance level of poverty, and having recieved several lessons on how not to encourage a street, or begging, culture here, I had assumed we would be faced with well, something completely different. I expected beggars and street children selling packets of gum. I anticipated pickpockets and dark alleys with shadey tuk tuk drivers trying to rip us off. Nope, not so much. I am ashamed to say that my western stereotypes were completely off base.
The Lao are lovely, friendly, warm and welcoming. This was evident no where as much as during the homestay. We prepared for the visit and the many long days of traveling ahead by stocking up on snacks at the local expat market. I also stocked up on a bottle of gin and cans of tonic water since the only thing readily available anywhere is beer.
Enroute to the village we stopped at a local Hmong market to marvel at the curiosities it had to offer. And curious they were. A note about the Lao, they eat everything. Our local Lao guide told us this when we first arrived, and our current Lao guide reaffirmed it. Nothing is off limits in the villages (in the cities we never saw anything unusual on the menu). Along with the standard farm animals (chickens, pigs, water buffalo), they eat frogs, lizards, bats, rats cats and even dog to name a few. So we were taken to the market to have a look at some of the more unusual delicacies still used by the ethnic minority groups in Lao. There were a whole range of unusual mushrooms and roots for sale. We also saw bats, eel, snails and a few rats for sale. There were live goats, rice alcohol, sesame oil and sugar cane. It was feast for the eyes.
We actually arrived at the village via B-52 boat. During the American (Vietnam) War, B-52 planes refueled in the air, dropping the empty fuel tanks to the ground. They make fantastic, ultra lightweight canoe type boats that are used all along the Ho Chi Min Trail. I am told we will also see them all over Vietnam. Yet another cool way to travel here. We had a quick walk around the village when we arrived and then settled in for cold drinks. As a group we ate dinner at one home and then split into two groups of three for the night.
There are about 47 houses and about 6 people per home. In the case of our main residence, the mother, father, youngest son and his wife share it. It is typical for the youngest son and his family to inherit the house and care for their parents. The homes are made of either bamboo or wood and built about 6' above the ground on stilts. The area below is used for all sorts of things; chickens, laundry, hammocks, rice husking. In this case, there were two large looms set up and the women of the ouse were busy at work. Our guide, Hi (pronounced Gee) prepared our dinner over an open fire in the kitchen, which we ate on the big porch outside. The home consisted of three buildings. First, the main house which had three areas defined by bamboo screen walls. This had a deep porch that ran the length of it and wrapped around to connect it to the kitchen building. There was also a toilet room about 100ft away.
We talked and then played card games and drank well into the night (this is where the gin came into play). In honor of Thanksgiving we had a round of "I'm thankful for..." toasts before splitting up and settling in for bed. We each had our own bed with a mosquito net for the night. All of our bedding was handmade and identical to the bedding our hosts used. It was a bit hard, but warm and comfy. Someone set the roosters for 6am and we were up and on the road again by 8am and were in Vietnam in time for dinner.
Laos has been lovely. Everything we have done here has been great and the people are wonderful hosts. I will miss the fresh fruit on every corner, the smiles in every shop and the song that has been running through our heads the whole time we have been here. Cup chai li li, li li li li li li (set to the tune of "The Boxer" by Simon and Garfunkel).
Sabaidee and cup chai li li Laos. Vietnam, here we come.!
The Lao are lovely, friendly, warm and welcoming. This was evident no where as much as during the homestay. We prepared for the visit and the many long days of traveling ahead by stocking up on snacks at the local expat market. I also stocked up on a bottle of gin and cans of tonic water since the only thing readily available anywhere is beer.
Enroute to the village we stopped at a local Hmong market to marvel at the curiosities it had to offer. And curious they were. A note about the Lao, they eat everything. Our local Lao guide told us this when we first arrived, and our current Lao guide reaffirmed it. Nothing is off limits in the villages (in the cities we never saw anything unusual on the menu). Along with the standard farm animals (chickens, pigs, water buffalo), they eat frogs, lizards, bats, rats cats and even dog to name a few. So we were taken to the market to have a look at some of the more unusual delicacies still used by the ethnic minority groups in Lao. There were a whole range of unusual mushrooms and roots for sale. We also saw bats, eel, snails and a few rats for sale. There were live goats, rice alcohol, sesame oil and sugar cane. It was feast for the eyes.
We actually arrived at the village via B-52 boat. During the American (Vietnam) War, B-52 planes refueled in the air, dropping the empty fuel tanks to the ground. They make fantastic, ultra lightweight canoe type boats that are used all along the Ho Chi Min Trail. I am told we will also see them all over Vietnam. Yet another cool way to travel here. We had a quick walk around the village when we arrived and then settled in for cold drinks. As a group we ate dinner at one home and then split into two groups of three for the night.
There are about 47 houses and about 6 people per home. In the case of our main residence, the mother, father, youngest son and his wife share it. It is typical for the youngest son and his family to inherit the house and care for their parents. The homes are made of either bamboo or wood and built about 6' above the ground on stilts. The area below is used for all sorts of things; chickens, laundry, hammocks, rice husking. In this case, there were two large looms set up and the women of the ouse were busy at work. Our guide, Hi (pronounced Gee) prepared our dinner over an open fire in the kitchen, which we ate on the big porch outside. The home consisted of three buildings. First, the main house which had three areas defined by bamboo screen walls. This had a deep porch that ran the length of it and wrapped around to connect it to the kitchen building. There was also a toilet room about 100ft away.
We talked and then played card games and drank well into the night (this is where the gin came into play). In honor of Thanksgiving we had a round of "I'm thankful for..." toasts before splitting up and settling in for bed. We each had our own bed with a mosquito net for the night. All of our bedding was handmade and identical to the bedding our hosts used. It was a bit hard, but warm and comfy. Someone set the roosters for 6am and we were up and on the road again by 8am and were in Vietnam in time for dinner.
Laos has been lovely. Everything we have done here has been great and the people are wonderful hosts. I will miss the fresh fruit on every corner, the smiles in every shop and the song that has been running through our heads the whole time we have been here. Cup chai li li, li li li li li li (set to the tune of "The Boxer" by Simon and Garfunkel).
Sabaidee and cup chai li li Laos. Vietnam, here we come.!
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Sitting in Buddha's Lap
In case you missed it, I have am posting two entries today. The first chronicles my last few days in Luang Prabang, including the elephant experience. I felt my next topic deserved and entry of its own. The day we arrived in Vientienne included a quick visit to a few temples followed by dinner and drinks at sunset along the river. This morning was the main event, a visit to COPE, the national rehabilitaion center here in Laos. This has been the most moving part of my journey yet. It was one of those moments when I found myself wondering how on earth the public conscience keeps things like this a secret.
Little known fact: Laos is the most heavily bombed country in history. During the Vietnam War (referred to as the American War here) over 260 million pieces of sub-munition was dropped inside Laos' borders even though the country was considered "neutral" in the conflict.
I don't know if anyone else will be as suprised by this fact as I was, and I am not about to start preaching on something I know so little about. And let me add that my goal here is not to make any kind of political statement whatsoever. All I will say is that I learned quite a bit about the efforts to recover and clear the remaining unexploded bombs and it left a significant impact on me. UNICEF and the UN have recognized that there is a significant risk to the population and estimates say it will take 100 years to clear. For any cause this is a daunting task.
The COPE visitors center is a must see on any travler's list when in Laos. It will open your eyes, move you to tears and reaffirm that there really are people out there making a difference.
After such an emotionally draining morning, we took a break and several of us rented a tuk tuk to take us out to "Buddha Park." It is like a religious playground filled with giant Hindu and Buddhist statues that you can climb on, around and inside of. Can you imagine?! I think I speak for us all when I say that sitting in Buddha's lap was reviving.
We depart in the morning for southern Laos and the village homestay before crossing the border into Vietnam. Happy Thanksgiving to all my American friends! I am sad that I am missing the dinner party, fireworks and tree lighting this year but I will be there in spirit. Tomorrow night, in lieu of champagne, I will say a toast with the bottle of gin I was able to buy at the European market. It will go something like this: "I am thankful for the opportunity to share my life with such a wonderful group of family and friends, I am thankful that every day I wake up to another opportunity for something great to happen, and I am thankful for all the paths that have led me to were I am today. You only get one shot at it, make it good. " Cheers!
Little known fact: Laos is the most heavily bombed country in history. During the Vietnam War (referred to as the American War here) over 260 million pieces of sub-munition was dropped inside Laos' borders even though the country was considered "neutral" in the conflict.
I don't know if anyone else will be as suprised by this fact as I was, and I am not about to start preaching on something I know so little about. And let me add that my goal here is not to make any kind of political statement whatsoever. All I will say is that I learned quite a bit about the efforts to recover and clear the remaining unexploded bombs and it left a significant impact on me. UNICEF and the UN have recognized that there is a significant risk to the population and estimates say it will take 100 years to clear. For any cause this is a daunting task.
The COPE visitors center is a must see on any travler's list when in Laos. It will open your eyes, move you to tears and reaffirm that there really are people out there making a difference.
After such an emotionally draining morning, we took a break and several of us rented a tuk tuk to take us out to "Buddha Park." It is like a religious playground filled with giant Hindu and Buddhist statues that you can climb on, around and inside of. Can you imagine?! I think I speak for us all when I say that sitting in Buddha's lap was reviving.
We depart in the morning for southern Laos and the village homestay before crossing the border into Vietnam. Happy Thanksgiving to all my American friends! I am sad that I am missing the dinner party, fireworks and tree lighting this year but I will be there in spirit. Tomorrow night, in lieu of champagne, I will say a toast with the bottle of gin I was able to buy at the European market. It will go something like this: "I am thankful for the opportunity to share my life with such a wonderful group of family and friends, I am thankful that every day I wake up to another opportunity for something great to happen, and I am thankful for all the paths that have led me to were I am today. You only get one shot at it, make it good. " Cheers!
Monday, November 23, 2009
Driving an elephant
I have to say, it has been another few spectacular days in Loas. At the end of my last blog entry I was just about to head out for an elephant ride...
The Lao call their land the land of a million elephants. Sadly, there are only about 2000 elephants left in the country, but the image of the elephant is still central here so it seemed fitting to participate. Also, many of the elephant trekking companies use funds to help with elephant rescue and rehabilitation projects. We started off riding two passengers to a bench strapped to the elephants back with a guide doing the directing from the cockpit (tucked behind the ears riding astride the elephants neck). It would not be an exaggeration to say that I was extremely disappointed with this arrangement. But, to my delight, after a few minutes we were allowed to do the driving! So cool. To operate one of these gentle giants you tap them gently behind the ears; both to go forward, either side to go left or right. When this doesn't get the desired results (which it rarely does) you rub her head or shoulder and say "Bai, Bai" (or go). Finally, you resort to rubbing her ears and pleading with the giant beast to leave the yummy jungle snacks alone and head down the path.
After an hour and a half of strolling (and snacking) our way through the jungle it was time for the bath part. For this we each had our own elephant and a mahout to keep things under control (really they were there to make sure we got as wet as possible). I was lucky enough to get the jokster of the group and we spent the whole time splashing everyone and everything. "Bun, bun!" is the elephant equivalent of "canon ball!" and signals the elephant to use his trunk to splash anything and everything. I am sure he was enjoying this as much as we were and I even got a nuzzle when I climbed down at the end.
After an hour and a half of strolling (and snacking) our way through the jungle it was time for the bath part. For this we each had our own elephant and a mahout to keep things under control (really they were there to make sure we got as wet as possible). I was lucky enough to get the jokster of the group and we spent the whole time splashing everyone and everything. "Bun, bun!" is the elephant equivalent of "canon ball!" and signals the elephant to use his trunk to splash anything and everything. I am sure he was enjoying this as much as we were and I even got a nuzzle when I climbed down at the end.
In the evening I climbed the 238 steps to the temple at the top of Mount Phousi (pronounced pussy, no kidding) to view the sunset...it was spectacular. Mary and I watched the sky and Mekong river below turn fire red while eating mangosteens from the market (delicious by the way).
Dinner was a traditional Lao meal at Tamarind, owned by a Lao/New Zealand couple who make it their business to introduce tourists to the local cuisine and how to eat it. We started with a tomato salsa-like dip, an eggplant (green) coriander dip, a chili paste, and a chili and buffalo skin dip. These we ate with seaweed crackers and sticky rice. The main course was lemongrass stuffed whole fish steamed in palm leaves. Fresh fruit juice cocktails accompanied the meal. Need I bother describing how delicious it was? Oh yeah, Ben and I were the only two adventurous enough to eat the fish eyes right from the heads...yum! Seriously, very very tasty.
The next morning was our last in Luang Prabang before catching a short flight south to the capital. I woke up at 4am to the sound of the monks drum (used to rouse them from their beds). I actually got out of bed at 5:30am to be in place to witness the giving of alms, or as we have affectionately started referring to it, the "feeding of the monks." To boil it down to the absolute basics, monks walk through the village each morning at sunrise collecting sticky rice from the locals. Sticky rice is the foundatoin of the diet here and the monks depend on the charity of the villagers to provide this staple. Their job is to then offer prayers on the behalf of the people. Quite simply it was both moving and beautiful to watch the long lines of monks walk through the streets recieving the gift of a pinch of sticky rice from the people they selflessly serve. Their vibrant orange robes were in contrast to the gray start of the morning and it was moving to see such an old tradition still in practice. At the suggestion of a more seasoned traveler, I "stalked a monk" in order to witness the practice being observed in a less touristy location. I watched what appeared to be a daughter, mother, grandmother and two aunts offer sticky rice to to monks from several temples.
A quick plane ride later and we arrived in Vientienne, the capital of Laos.
A quick plane ride later and we arrived in Vientienne, the capital of Laos.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Week One - Oh My Buddha!
Week one down! And it's been fantastic! I have realized that I will have to update this blog more often as there is just so much packed in to every day.Get comfortable, this is a long one...
I met up with my group on Monday night. There are just 5 of us and our group leader. We range in age from 24 to 33. Andy, our leader is from New Zealand is the oldest at 40. There are 3 Aussies Matt, Ben and Rhonda (Christa, I am dying to see the grin on your face), and an Irish girl named Mary. We started the trip off right with a snack from a street vendor (a few fried crickets in soy sauce), dinner (thai noddles), a lesson in haggling with the street sellers (Andy is a force to be reckoned with) and a night out drinking in the crazy tourist area of town. The people watching was fantastic.
Tuesday morning we took a long boat tour of the waterways in Bangkok as a group, then I visited Wat Pho and the Royal Palace with two others from my group. Wat is the word for temple and every sizable town has at least one. The cities have more than I can even count. Wat Pho is the home of the largest reclining Buddha and our first introduction to temple architecture. The Royal palace ground have several incredible temples and house the Emerald Buddha. Adjacent to these is the actual Royal Palace, but it was the temples we came to see. Every thing about the temple grounds is glittering, extravegant and decadent. It is a feast for the eyes. I am not even going to attempt to describe it here, you will have to see the photos. In them you with note we are all red faced and sweaty, did I mention that it was sweltering in Bangkok?
After an overnight train ride we arrived in Chiang Mai on Wednesday. A cockroach sighting meant I didn't sleep very well but the porter kept us occupied with an endless supply of Thai beer and soda. He also saved my morning with a lethal cup of coffee. After adding three creams and three packets of sugar it was lush.
As a group we had decided to take an optional excursion to go bamboo rafting so after settling in to our rooms, we headed off to float down the river. The relaxing float trip turned into a wet, splashing laugh and ended with a tire swing. This is where the title 'Oh my Buddha" comes from, it was coined by one of our Thai raft punters. It was great to stretch and swim after the train ride. We all elected to follow this up with traditional Thai massages at this little spot around the corner from our hotel. One hour of massage, one hour of foot reflexology massage all for $12!
In the evening we hiked the 328 steps to Doi Suthep Temple for sunset and to witness the monks do their evening chants. It was incredible. I was blessed by a monk (with a blue tooth in his ear) and given a string bracelet to bring me good luck. The monk culture is so interesting here. It brings great honor to your family to be a monk and they are a fundamental part of the community. But it is possible to be a monk for anywhere from three days (most common when a parent dies) to a life commitment. Hence the monks with cell phones and scooters. More about the monks later, I don't want to diminish their role in the culture here by adding it in randomly to my babble.
(Oh my god, is this entry long enough yet? It seems that I am no more controlled in writing than I am in talking and there is no one here to cut me off and tell me to shut up! I might be in heaven!)
We shopped like crazy at the famous Chiang Mai night market and boarded a private van the next day for the Laos border. Along the way we stopped at a cashew factory and the white temple. This is not the actual name for it, but that is exactly what it is. It is the life work of a Thai artist and there is nothing traditional about it. Again, the photos with tell the story, but the complex and the art work are amazing. While every surface on the main temple grounds is white and mirrored, the inside of the main temple is covered in rich gold murals depicting enlightenment on one wall and the opposite on the other. The most interesting part is that this mural includes images of satelites, rockets, famous people, superheros (Batman and Spiderman) and even Keanu Reeves circa The Matrix! The white temple grounds are the gold monks quarters and the "Golden Toilet." This is another beautiful building, all painted gold that literally house the bathrooms. I read that the artist is using this as a commentary about the need to let go of all wants and desires to reach enlightenment. I will have to look up his statement to explain this correctly, but it is impressive nonetheless.
Ok, we crossed the Thai/Laos border (via boat), and spent a pleasant night in the cutest little huts. Our guest house was a collection of huts, raised up off the ground on stilts, with small porches at the front and back. The next morning we departed via river boat for a two day float down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. We spent a pleasant night in the sleepy little town of Huany Xia. Dinner was Indian food at this great little establishment that got our order completely wrong but the food was delicious so we were happy (and drunk) anyway. We boarded our boat for day two of the journey at 9am and spent the day watching the world and the villages float by. Along the way we stopped at some caves located above the river in a cliff face. People have been coming to them to place Buddha statues and pray for blessings for 600 years. How they raeched them before the concrete steps were built is beyond me.
We also had a quick stop just outside Luang Prabang at a Hamong village to pick up some rice hooch. No kidding! The villagers distill a type of rice vodka. The full strength is brutal, tastes and smells like terpentine and is 50% alcohol by volume. We shared three rounds of shots with the guys selling it and barely made it back down (stairs again) into the boat. They also sell a girlie version made from black rice that is sweet and tastes like berries and is only 15% alcohol content. We bought 4 bottles between us and are saving it to drink when we party at the homestay with our hosts.
We arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos on Saturday evening.
Luang Prabang is lovely. It's a UNESCO World Heritage sight and full of expats that have opened a whole array of coffee shops and restaurants among the restored buildings. Formerly a French colony, the architecture is a combination of French topical and traditional temples. But who wants to hear about the architecture...the coffee here is amazing! Lao is known for it's coffee and it certainly does not disappoint. It takes a little getting used to as it is much richer and intense than I am used to, but made into a latte at one of the french style cafes it is delicious. Joma's, the Laos version of Starbucks but much quainter has a phrase, "A morning without coffee is like something without something else."
On Sunday we went on an 8km hike out to Kwang Sii Falls. We started in a small village and hiked past rice, corn, tobacco and teak tree fields to the mouth of the spring. Then we follwed the stream through the jungle to the top of the falls and via bamboo fence stood righ at the top and peered down. After hiking down to the bottom we were able to swim in one of the pools. We recouperated with a manicure and pedicure ($10) followed by some shopping at the night market.
Phew, ok I gotta run. Today is the elephant trek and then some temple sightseeing. We are going to climb up Mount Phousi to see the sunset so hopefully it will be clear enough tonight to get some sky. I promise not to wait so long and make these entry's so long again!
I met up with my group on Monday night. There are just 5 of us and our group leader. We range in age from 24 to 33. Andy, our leader is from New Zealand is the oldest at 40. There are 3 Aussies Matt, Ben and Rhonda (Christa, I am dying to see the grin on your face), and an Irish girl named Mary. We started the trip off right with a snack from a street vendor (a few fried crickets in soy sauce), dinner (thai noddles), a lesson in haggling with the street sellers (Andy is a force to be reckoned with) and a night out drinking in the crazy tourist area of town. The people watching was fantastic.
Tuesday morning we took a long boat tour of the waterways in Bangkok as a group, then I visited Wat Pho and the Royal Palace with two others from my group. Wat is the word for temple and every sizable town has at least one. The cities have more than I can even count. Wat Pho is the home of the largest reclining Buddha and our first introduction to temple architecture. The Royal palace ground have several incredible temples and house the Emerald Buddha. Adjacent to these is the actual Royal Palace, but it was the temples we came to see. Every thing about the temple grounds is glittering, extravegant and decadent. It is a feast for the eyes. I am not even going to attempt to describe it here, you will have to see the photos. In them you with note we are all red faced and sweaty, did I mention that it was sweltering in Bangkok?
After an overnight train ride we arrived in Chiang Mai on Wednesday. A cockroach sighting meant I didn't sleep very well but the porter kept us occupied with an endless supply of Thai beer and soda. He also saved my morning with a lethal cup of coffee. After adding three creams and three packets of sugar it was lush.
As a group we had decided to take an optional excursion to go bamboo rafting so after settling in to our rooms, we headed off to float down the river. The relaxing float trip turned into a wet, splashing laugh and ended with a tire swing. This is where the title 'Oh my Buddha" comes from, it was coined by one of our Thai raft punters. It was great to stretch and swim after the train ride. We all elected to follow this up with traditional Thai massages at this little spot around the corner from our hotel. One hour of massage, one hour of foot reflexology massage all for $12!
In the evening we hiked the 328 steps to Doi Suthep Temple for sunset and to witness the monks do their evening chants. It was incredible. I was blessed by a monk (with a blue tooth in his ear) and given a string bracelet to bring me good luck. The monk culture is so interesting here. It brings great honor to your family to be a monk and they are a fundamental part of the community. But it is possible to be a monk for anywhere from three days (most common when a parent dies) to a life commitment. Hence the monks with cell phones and scooters. More about the monks later, I don't want to diminish their role in the culture here by adding it in randomly to my babble.
(Oh my god, is this entry long enough yet? It seems that I am no more controlled in writing than I am in talking and there is no one here to cut me off and tell me to shut up! I might be in heaven!)
We shopped like crazy at the famous Chiang Mai night market and boarded a private van the next day for the Laos border. Along the way we stopped at a cashew factory and the white temple. This is not the actual name for it, but that is exactly what it is. It is the life work of a Thai artist and there is nothing traditional about it. Again, the photos with tell the story, but the complex and the art work are amazing. While every surface on the main temple grounds is white and mirrored, the inside of the main temple is covered in rich gold murals depicting enlightenment on one wall and the opposite on the other. The most interesting part is that this mural includes images of satelites, rockets, famous people, superheros (Batman and Spiderman) and even Keanu Reeves circa The Matrix! The white temple grounds are the gold monks quarters and the "Golden Toilet." This is another beautiful building, all painted gold that literally house the bathrooms. I read that the artist is using this as a commentary about the need to let go of all wants and desires to reach enlightenment. I will have to look up his statement to explain this correctly, but it is impressive nonetheless.
Ok, we crossed the Thai/Laos border (via boat), and spent a pleasant night in the cutest little huts. Our guest house was a collection of huts, raised up off the ground on stilts, with small porches at the front and back. The next morning we departed via river boat for a two day float down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang. We spent a pleasant night in the sleepy little town of Huany Xia. Dinner was Indian food at this great little establishment that got our order completely wrong but the food was delicious so we were happy (and drunk) anyway. We boarded our boat for day two of the journey at 9am and spent the day watching the world and the villages float by. Along the way we stopped at some caves located above the river in a cliff face. People have been coming to them to place Buddha statues and pray for blessings for 600 years. How they raeched them before the concrete steps were built is beyond me.
We also had a quick stop just outside Luang Prabang at a Hamong village to pick up some rice hooch. No kidding! The villagers distill a type of rice vodka. The full strength is brutal, tastes and smells like terpentine and is 50% alcohol by volume. We shared three rounds of shots with the guys selling it and barely made it back down (stairs again) into the boat. They also sell a girlie version made from black rice that is sweet and tastes like berries and is only 15% alcohol content. We bought 4 bottles between us and are saving it to drink when we party at the homestay with our hosts.
We arrived in Luang Prabang, Laos on Saturday evening.
Luang Prabang is lovely. It's a UNESCO World Heritage sight and full of expats that have opened a whole array of coffee shops and restaurants among the restored buildings. Formerly a French colony, the architecture is a combination of French topical and traditional temples. But who wants to hear about the architecture...the coffee here is amazing! Lao is known for it's coffee and it certainly does not disappoint. It takes a little getting used to as it is much richer and intense than I am used to, but made into a latte at one of the french style cafes it is delicious. Joma's, the Laos version of Starbucks but much quainter has a phrase, "A morning without coffee is like something without something else."
On Sunday we went on an 8km hike out to Kwang Sii Falls. We started in a small village and hiked past rice, corn, tobacco and teak tree fields to the mouth of the spring. Then we follwed the stream through the jungle to the top of the falls and via bamboo fence stood righ at the top and peered down. After hiking down to the bottom we were able to swim in one of the pools. We recouperated with a manicure and pedicure ($10) followed by some shopping at the night market.
Phew, ok I gotta run. Today is the elephant trek and then some temple sightseeing. We are going to climb up Mount Phousi to see the sunset so hopefully it will be clear enough tonight to get some sky. I promise not to wait so long and make these entry's so long again!
Sunday, November 15, 2009
I have arrived!
Getting here was no easy task. Well, I suppose it ws rather easy, it's not like I had to flap or anything, it was just took a very long time. I left DIA at 6:30 on Saturday morning, had stop overs in Minneapolis and Tokyo and arrived in Bangkok at 1am Monday morning Thai time. All totaled it took about 28.5 hours to get here. It also took several sleeping pills, a few cocktails, bag of gummybears and a novel. But here I am safe and sound!
I've already been out on my first excursion down the road and around the corner into a nearby market to find some food as I slept through breakfast this morning. I had the best papaya I have ever tasted along with an iced sweet milky tea and fresh mini donut like pastries. (That was for Katie and Dan). The whole thing cost me about $2. I would have liked to try one of the fresh noodle stands but didnt think I should start my first day in town with any of those little juicy hot peppers. I will save the real street food for later in the day.
My hotel is actually in the Chinatown area of Bangkok and not far from the river. I am on the 20th floor of the tallest building around so I have a pretty incredible view of the city. Tonight my group is meeting for drinks at the roof top bar and I will find out who I will be spending the next four weeks hanging out with. My favorite thing about the room is the really powerful shower head that is positioned perfectly to pount on my neck and shoulders. In other words I am too tall for it and have to crouch to get my head wet. It really is great after a day of flying though. It's just comical to me that at 5'5" I tower over the water supply.
ok, that's it for now. I am off to sightsee a bit more in Chinatown. More later...
I've already been out on my first excursion down the road and around the corner into a nearby market to find some food as I slept through breakfast this morning. I had the best papaya I have ever tasted along with an iced sweet milky tea and fresh mini donut like pastries. (That was for Katie and Dan). The whole thing cost me about $2. I would have liked to try one of the fresh noodle stands but didnt think I should start my first day in town with any of those little juicy hot peppers. I will save the real street food for later in the day.
My hotel is actually in the Chinatown area of Bangkok and not far from the river. I am on the 20th floor of the tallest building around so I have a pretty incredible view of the city. Tonight my group is meeting for drinks at the roof top bar and I will find out who I will be spending the next four weeks hanging out with. My favorite thing about the room is the really powerful shower head that is positioned perfectly to pount on my neck and shoulders. In other words I am too tall for it and have to crouch to get my head wet. It really is great after a day of flying though. It's just comical to me that at 5'5" I tower over the water supply.
ok, that's it for now. I am off to sightsee a bit more in Chinatown. More later...
Monday, November 9, 2009
The Final Countdown
Holy cow! I can't believe I only have 5 days left to go! This trip has been two years in the planning and yet I still feel completely unprepared. That's probably because I am as I have a real talent for procrastination. I am just trying to get all the last details in place (prepay all my bills), pack (how many pairs of shoes do you need for a 7 week trip), fend off malaria (other immunizations are intact), and make sure you all can keep track of me (never an easy feat). Hence, this blog.
I have no idea what my access is going to be like but I assume, like Starbucks, there will be internet cafes in most cities. What's the likelihood I will be sipping on a Grande iced soy chai when I update you from Vietnam? Ha! I can't make any promises as to how frequently I will actually be on here, but if all goes well you will get at least a few updates and pictures on my adventures.
Anyway, for anyone who is unfamiliar with the trip I am about to depart on the basic summary is as follows: I will be traveling for 7 weeks in Asia making stops in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and China. I'll be back in Vail on January 3, 2010. I am traveling with a group for the first 28 days then meeting up with my friends Trevia and Patrick Walker in China. They are really the catalyst for this whole trip. When they left Colorado to take teaching positions in China, I (brilliantly) promised to come visit.
So, here I am. FIVE days to go and counting!
I have no idea what my access is going to be like but I assume, like Starbucks, there will be internet cafes in most cities. What's the likelihood I will be sipping on a Grande iced soy chai when I update you from Vietnam? Ha! I can't make any promises as to how frequently I will actually be on here, but if all goes well you will get at least a few updates and pictures on my adventures.
Anyway, for anyone who is unfamiliar with the trip I am about to depart on the basic summary is as follows: I will be traveling for 7 weeks in Asia making stops in Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and China. I'll be back in Vail on January 3, 2010. I am traveling with a group for the first 28 days then meeting up with my friends Trevia and Patrick Walker in China. They are really the catalyst for this whole trip. When they left Colorado to take teaching positions in China, I (brilliantly) promised to come visit.
So, here I am. FIVE days to go and counting!
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